DAY NINE
SATURDAY, APRIL 13, 2024
ONE LAST DAY IN ROME
The Flash Pack trip really ended last night, as we all had different departures this morning. (That has to be some sort of weird statistic, right? That literally all nine of us had different departures by plane or train from Bari on the same day? No two people on the same flight??)
I felt for the people with ridiculous early times, but I had a civilized 11:20AM flight from Bari to Rome. I was most likely going to have to go back through Rome anyway to get from Bari to NYC, so had decided to spend the day and one last night there to take in some final sights before flying back home on Sunday.
Michele was above-and-beyond helpful in scheduling a taxi for every one of us to get to the airport or train station, and I met him downstairs in the hotel lobby for a final goodbye before hopping in the taxi he had booked to take me to the Bari airport.
“Un ragazzo una ragazza” of course playing on the radio, perfectly bookending my airport car pickup on the first day. 😂
Arriving at the airport, I checked into my ITA Airways flight to Rome and had some time to get some breakfast and wander around the shops. Surprisingly good pistachio cornetto and cappuccino at the airport!
SO many places to buy ceramics in case you missed them in Puglia!
Trulli display
Get some last minute pumo in a vending machine! I’m assuming that there’s some sort of claw thing and that the ceramics don’t come crashing down??
The quick flight itself was uneventful – an easy hour and ten minutes to Rome. Once I arrived, I got my suitcase and found my way to the Leonardo Express, a shuttle train that goes back and forth between the Fiumicino airport and Termini Station in Rome. Definitely the easiest option, though of course there was something going on with the trains that day which caused a huge crowd and backups in the station. But I waited in the long line to get my ticket and eventually got on a train for the 30 minute trip into the city.
Arriving at Termini Station, it was about a 12 minute walk to my hotel on Via Nazionale, a major shopping street and connection from the train station to the sights of Central Rome.
Just outside the hotel on Via Nazionale
Hotel Artemide (named for Artemis, whose statue greets you at the door) was really pretty, the staff was extremely friendly, and my room was very comfortable – perfect for one last night in Italy.
I also picked it because it’s conveniently about a 3-minute walk from the Opera House where I’d be heading this evening.
My agenda for today was leisurely wandering around Monti, a hipster-vibe neighborhood that has evolved over the last couple of decades from seedy and run-down to trendy and artsy, now a popular shopping and dining district.
I had looked up where I wanted to eat lunch, and a few intriguing stores, but otherwise just planned to walk around the picturesque streets and take in the overall neighborhood.
One of the stores I most wanted to stop in, as it sounded like an “urban gardener’s paradise” selling creative plant accessories… but it turned out to be primarily an organic restaurant that, from what I could see, only had a few small things for sale. Oh well!
For lunch, I stopped at Mizio’s Street Food, a tiny little sandwich shop with great reviews, for a porcetta sandwich. I was really looking forward to it, but this was really the one bust of the trip – I’m not sure what I was expecting with the sandwich (toppings?) but it was just a couple of thin slices of pork in bread. The bread was fresh, and the pork was fresh, but this one was definitely a letdown, unfortunately.
Hungry after my sad lunch, I made up for it with a trip to Fatamorgana, a gelato place known for its creative and unique flavors with a couple of trendy locations in Rome and apparently also LA! I must have been excited to eat it, and it was also hot and melty out, so time was of the essence, as I forgot to take a photo. But I got two scoops – one ginger creme pat with chestnut honey and lemon, and one basil, walnuts, and honey. Definitely interesting (the guy helping me recommended the basil/walnuts/honey as a compliment to the first one which I knew I wanted), but also really good and I was happy with my choices!
I felt like I had gotten a good taste of Monti, and had a little bit of time before I needed to be back at the hotel, so decided to walk over to the Church of Santa Maria della Vittoria to check out one last Bernini masterpiece, a favorite of mine for years that I had run out of time to see at the beginning of the trip. The walk itself was really nice, passing the Piazza della Repubblica (essentially a big traffic roundabout) and its striking Fountain of the Naiads, a relatively modern fountain and group of sculptures created in the late 19th/early 20th century,
A few minutes later, I found myself at the church I was looking for, home to Bernini’s 1652 masterpiece The Ecstasy of St. Teresa. The sculpture/altarpiece in the church’s Cornaro Chapel depicts the account of the mystic nun Teresa of Avila as she experienced religious ecstasy while having a vision of an angel with a flaming arrow piercing her heart. One of the coolest features of the sculpture is the use of a slightly hidden window to illuminate the art from above, making the gold plated stucco rays seem to glow.
It really is an incredible piece of art and I was glad I made the detour to see it!
Keeping with the pattern I had seen throughout my time in Rome, it wasn’t just this Bernini piece that was beautiful; the whole church was overwhelmed with floor to ceiling Baroque detail. The various windows around the perimeter of the ceiling cast a glow over the whole church, giving it an added element of spirituality.
Leaving the church, I made a quick stop at the giant Fountain of Moses across the street, made in 1588 by Leonardo Sormani and Prospero da Brescia. Literally everywhere you turn in Rome, a masterpiece. Incredible.
Satisfied after my fill of visual artistry, I headed back to my hotel to shower and get dressed up for some musical artistry.
I am admittedly not a big opera person, but have sung a bunch of classical choral music over the years and have always loved the Italian Romantic period composers, particularly Puccini and Verdi. I had wanted to see the beautiful Teatro dell'Opera di Roma and when I looked to see what might be playing while I was there, I was in luck. I’m not that familiar with Vincenzo Bellini, but he was from the same ballpark period as the composers I love, and is famous for being the quintessential composer of the early 19th Century ‘bel canto’ (“beautiful singing”) period, so I knew I’d be in for a lot of soaring melodies and impressive vocal performances.
And so I bought a ticket to his La sonnambula (“the sleepwalker”). It’s a typically ludicrous opera story of a woman who sleepwalks and finds herself in the room of a man who is not her fiancé, of course chaos ensues, but the story is really secondary to the music. In doing a bit of pre-research to make sure I’d like this, I was also happy to see that La sonnambula contains a ton of big ensemble pieces, more my cup of tea than a lot of solos.
Excited to see what the evening had in store, I headed over to the opera house, an easy 5 minute walk from my hotel.
Opera selfie, with the new earrings I treated myself to in Ostuni
The building was nice enough from the outside and in the lobby, but inside the theatre was quite the sight!
Subtitles have come a long way, and the opera house partners with the Lyra Live app that will show a live translation on your phone as you watch. I downloaded it and was fully planning to use it, but they ended up having English and Italian subtitles scrolling on a screen at the top of the stage which was easier.
Still, impressive.
And it turned out I really loved it! The ensemble pieces were definitely my favorite, but I thought the whole production was great, and this might have moved the needle a little bit in my appreciation of the art form.
Unfortunately, when I had been planning my evening, I looked up the running time of the whole opera and made a dinner reservation based on that. And as it turns out, that running time was inaccurate.
I was headed to a Michelin star restaurant, and while I had originally planned to dine solo, Kristen from the Flash Pack trip was also going to be in Rome that night and I was so happy that she was able to join me. But with the need to get to the restaurant on time, there was just no way I could stay for Act 2, which was such a bummer. It was already a late 8:45 dinner, so not sure I would’ve wanted to make it that much later anyway, but I felt so bad leaving, especially since I really was enjoying it!
I did eventually look up what happens in Act 2, to at least get some closure on the story.
The opera's most famous aria "Ah! non credea mirarti," sung here by the incomparable Natalie Dessay in a production at the Metropolitan Opera (in NYC). This is a much more modern interpretation than the traditional staging I saw in Rome, but totally worth the watch for both Bellini's beautiful melody and her stellar performance, not to mention the creative staging of having her "sleepwalk" over the orchestra!
After going back to the hotel to change out of my dress and into something less formal, I met Kristen back at the Piazza della Repubblica where I had been earlier in the day, and together we walked to the restaurant Moma, not far from where we had stayed in Rome at the beginning of the trip.
The restaurant is a more casual cafe during the day and turned into a Michelin star place at night, but surprisingly affordable for the level of food and service that they had. From the moment we got there the host and wait staff couldn’t have been more friendly and accommodating, and the food was excellent – some of the prettiest plating I’ve seen.
We ordered a bottle of wine, and the waiter brought us a lovely bread plate and also a sampling of amuse bouches. We ate a couple of them – they were mostly a little exotic for our tastes with bone marrows and tartares. I felt bad but that wasn’t in my “can I eat here” research so it is what it is haha. For our meal, we started with the most beautifully plated salad I’ve ever seen, followed by sharing two pasta dishes and then the “chicken in two services” for two people.
Those crackers on the right were so light!
Amuse bouche sampling. The standing-up crackers on the second plate from the left were the best – a savory parmesan ice cream sandwich! On the far left is a puff pastry with cod fish and chick peas. On the third plate from the left the little red domes were a chicken liver mousse with bell pepper gelee and the little cylinders were something stuffed with bone marrow. On the far right is a beef tartare with mayonnaise. Not sure I remember the others, but a really beautiful presentation!
“Our Seasonal Garden.” Really, look at this work of art of a salad! Served in a deep bowl (you can see Kristen’s in my bread picture), the flavor was really good too – there were some pickled vegetables among the fresh, served on a crumble base and, you can barely see it at the very bottom, some sort of black vinegar paste.
Strachiatunt Tortelli with almonds, asparagus, and lemon. (Strachiatunt is a cheese that’s sort of a cross between blue cheese and Taleggio.) This was my favorite of the two pastas!
Rigatoni with beetroot, blue cheese, black garlic, and Pimpinella. (Pimpinella is the herb on top.)
Part One of the “Chicken in Two Services” – can’t remember the specifics of the ingredients, but it was a chicken breast with some sort of cream sauce, I think a caramelized onion, and greens, and it was delicious.
Part Two of the Chicken – I forgot to take a picture before I starting eating, sorry! This one I was hesitant to touch at first because our waiter described it as chicken stomach… but we wanted to double check, and it turns out that his English just wasn’t right and it was chicken thigh haha. Much better!
Selection of desserts from the kitchen. There was a full dessert menu, but we stuck with this. They deliberately didn’t tell us what these were, asking us to enjoy the flavors and experience as we ate. On the top left was a little raspberry gummy covered in sugar, top right were very rich chocolate bites, bottom left were like little citrus tarts, and I think the bottom right were made with passion fruit.
Leaving the restaurant it was our last night in Rome (and in Italy), so we decided to walk to the Trevi Fountain and some of the shops in the area.